Wednesday, August 3, 2011
As a teenager, growing up in Kailua, on the other side of the island, Oahu, Hawaii, my surfing buddies and I would always say: 'When I grow up, I'm gonna live on the beach in front of my own surf spot!' Well, here I am. The surf spot is called 'Empty Lots', as several un-built upon lots were in the vicinity. Not any more.
I stopped here to 'check out' the surf on a few occasions as a teenager. I remember surfing here maybe two or three times.
Now that I live here, I know some little secrets about this place. When it is good and when it is not. And i am out every day at the perfect time. Most of the time by myself.
It's funny, the dreams of our youth and how we end up either dismissing them or fulfilling them. This is one dream, among many, that I really am glad that I ended up having come true.